Types of Corner Bead
Metal Corner Bead
The traditional option. Galvanized steel or aluminum with perforated flanges that nail or screw to the drywall. Cheap, readily available, and provides a crisp corner edge.
Pros: Inexpensive. Creates perfectly straight corners. Easy to cut with snips. Familiar to anyone who's done drywall.
Cons: Dents easily. The flanges can lift if not properly secured. Shows through paint if mud is too thin. Rust can be an issue with steel versions in wet areas.
I still use metal bead in areas away from impact, like ceilings or high walls where nobody's going to bump it.
Paper-Faced Corner Bead
A metal or plastic core with paper flanges instead of metal ones. The paper embeds into the mud rather than just being covered by it.
Pros: Stronger bond since paper becomes part of the mud coat. More forgiving of slight dents since there's no metal edge to push through. Smoother finished corners.
Cons: Requires more technique to install. Paper must be fully embedded in wet mud. Slightly more expensive than metal.
This is my go-to for most corners now. The corners finish smoother and hold up better over time.
Vinyl Corner Bead
All plastic construction. Flexible and won't dent like metal.
Pros: Impact resistant. Won't rust. Flexible enough to conform to slightly imperfect corners.
Cons: Harder to finish smoothly because the plastic edge doesn't want to disappear under mud. More expensive. Can be tricky to get straight.
I use vinyl in high-traffic areas like hallways and in corners that might see regular impact. The flexibility is worth the finishing difficulty.
Installing Metal Corner Bead
The process is straightforward but details matter.
Cut the bead to length with tin snips. Measure your corner and cut about 1/2 inch short to allow for floor and ceiling gaps.
Position the bead so the nose sits right at the corner with the flanges pressing flat against the drywall on both sides. The bead should create a straight line from top to bottom.
Fasten with drywall nails or screws through the perforations in the flanges. Start in the middle, then work toward the ends. Nails every 6-8 inches is typical. Make sure the bead stays tight against the corner as you fasten.
Check for straightness by sighting down the corner. Any bow or wave in the bead will show after finishing. Adjust as needed before moving on.
Apply mud over the flanges, filling the space between the flange edge and the raised nose. Feather out 4-6 inches on each side. Two or three coats, feathering wider each time.
Installing Paper-Faced Corner Bead
Paper-faced bead doesn't nail on like metal. It embeds into mud.
Cut to length like metal bead. The core cuts with snips, the paper with scissors or a knife.
Apply a bed coat of mud to both sides of the corner, about 4 inches wide on each side. Use enough mud to embed the paper fully.
Press the bead into the wet mud, positioning the nose at the corner. Use a corner tool or wide knife to embed the paper flanges, pressing firmly from center to edges. Mud should squeeze out slightly along the edges.
Let the bed coat dry before applying finish coats. The paper needs to be fully bonded before you build up the finish.
Finish with one or two more coats, feathering out to blend with the wall surface.
Installing Vinyl Corner Bead
Vinyl can be installed several ways: adhesive, staples, or mud-embedded like paper-faced.
My preference is staples combined with mud. Position the bead, staple the flanges every 8-10 inches to hold it in place, then apply mud over the flanges.
The challenge with vinyl is getting a smooth transition from the plastic edge to the mud. The plastic doesn't absorb mud like paper does, so the transition can show if you're not careful.
I apply my first coat of mud slightly proud of the vinyl edge, let it dry, then sand back to blend. Takes more coats than metal or paper-faced bead to look right.
Specialty Profiles
Beyond basic corner bead, specialty profiles handle specific situations.
Bullnose bead creates rounded corners instead of sharp 90-degree edges. Popular in Southwest style homes and anywhere you want a softer look. Installs similarly to standard bead but requires more mud to build up the curve.
L-bead terminates drywall at windows, doors, and other openings. Creates a clean edge without exposed drywall paper.
J-bead wraps around cut drywall edges for a finished look, often used where drywall meets other materials.
Archway bead is flexible and designed to follow curved surfaces. I used this for the archway in our house, bending it to match the curve and then mudding like regular bead.
Common Installation Mistakes
Problems I've caused or seen:
Bead not tight to corner. Gaps between the bead nose and the actual corner create weak spots and uneven lines. The bead should press firmly into the corner.
Crooked installation. If the bead doesn't run straight, your corner won't be straight. Take time to check alignment before you're committed.
Too little mud over flanges. The metal or paper flanges should be fully buried. If they show through paint, you didn't apply enough mud.
Insufficient fastening. Bead that's loose will lift and crack. Fasten adequately, especially at joints between pieces.
Sharp transitions at joints. Where two pieces of bead meet, the joint should be smooth. File or sand any raised edges at joints.