Understanding the Purpose
Drywall screws do one job: hold the drywall tight against the framing. Once there are enough to do that job, more doesn't add value.
The right screw pattern considers several factors. How much load is the drywall under? Ceilings fight gravity constantly, walls don't. How far apart is the framing? Wider spacing needs more attachment points. Where are stress concentrations? Edges and corners need more support than field areas.
Too few screws and the drywall can pull away from framing, especially on ceilings. Too many and you create more potential failure points and more finishing work. The patterns below represent the sweet spot.
Ceiling Screw Pattern
Ceilings need tighter spacing than walls because gravity is constantly pulling the drywall down.
Along each joist: screws every 7-8 inches. This is closer than wall spacing because ceiling drywall carries its own weight unsupported between joists.
At edges: screws every 7 inches along any edge that falls on a joist or blocking.
Perimeter: the edges where ceiling meets walls will be supported by wall sheets, but still fasten them. Screws about 8 inches apart along the perimeter joists.
Start from the center of the sheet and work outward. This keeps the sheet tight to the joists as you go. Starting at edges can cause buckling in the center.
For 5/8-inch drywall, you can sometimes go slightly wider, maybe 8-10 inches. But I stick with 7-8 inches regardless. The extra screws are cheap insurance against sag.
Wall Screw Pattern
Walls can have wider spacing because gravity isn't fighting to pull the sheet off the studs.
In the field: screws every 12-16 inches along each stud. Most professionals go 12 inches. You can push to 16 on residential walls with standard stud spacing.
At edges: screws every 8 inches along any edge that falls on a stud.
At seams: where two sheets meet on a stud, both edges get screws. This means more screws along seam studs than field studs.
Keep screws 3/8 inch from sheet edges minimum, 1/2 inch is better. Closer than 3/8 inch risks breaking out the edge.
Where to Add Extra Screws
Some areas benefit from additional fastening beyond the standard pattern.
Around openings. Windows, doors, and other openings concentrate stress. Add a few extra screws around the perimeter of openings.
At corners. Both inside and outside corners see movement as the house settles and shifts. Extra fastening helps the corner bead and tape stay put.
Where sheets are cut and don't span well. A narrow strip of drywall that spans between two studs with no intermediate support benefits from extra screws at each end.
High-traffic areas. In hallways or rooms where people might lean against or bump walls, a few extra screws help the drywall resist deflection.
Screw Depth
Spacing means nothing if the screws aren't driven correctly.
The ideal depth creates a dimple in the drywall surface without breaking through the paper. The screw head should sit just below the paper face, with the paper intact over it.
If the paper breaks, the screw loses holding power. The paper is what grips around the screw head. Once it's torn, the screw is just sitting in crumbly gypsum.
A screw gun with clutch depth adjustment makes this easier. Set the clutch so screws stop at the right depth automatically. Without a clutch, you're relying on feel with every screw.
If you over-drive a screw, don't try to back it out. Drive a new screw an inch or two away and leave the over-driven one in place. Backing out makes a bigger hole.
Screw Selection
The right screws for the job:
Length: 1-1/4 inch for 1/2-inch drywall into wood studs. 1-5/8 inch for 5/8-inch drywall or if you need extra bite. Using too-short screws is a common mistake that leads to pullout.
Thread type: coarse thread for wood framing, fine thread for metal studs. The threads are visibly different. Coarse threads are spaced wider apart.
Head type: bugle head is standard. The head shape creates the dimple naturally when driven to the right depth.
Phosphate coating (black screws) is standard for drywall screws. It resists rust and takes paint well.
Common Pattern Mistakes
What I've seen go wrong:
Uniform over-fastening. Screws everywhere doesn't make it stronger. It just creates more dimples to fill.
Forgetting the ceiling is different. Wall spacing on a ceiling leads to sag. Ceilings need tighter spacing.
Edges too close to screws. Screws within 1/4 inch of an edge will break out eventually. Keep that 3/8 inch minimum.
Inconsistent depth. Some dimpled properly, some broken through, some proud of the surface. Each depth mistake creates finishing problems.
Missing the framing. A screw that doesn't hit the stud isn't doing anything. Learn to feel the difference between hitting wood and hitting nothing.