Why Nails Pop
Understanding the problem helps you fix it properly. The nail isn't actually moving. The wood around it is.
Framing lumber shrinks as it dries. A new house might have studs with 15-19 percent moisture content. Over the first few years, that drops to 8-12 percent as the wood equilibrates with indoor air. That shrinkage releases the wood's grip on the nail shank.
Once the grip loosens, the drywall can shift slightly on the nail. The nail head gets pushed outward, creating that telltale bump under the paint. Sometimes the nail head actually breaks through the surface.
This is why nail pops are so common in new construction. The house is literally drying out and tightening up. It's also why pops often appear seasonally, with dry winter heating and humid summers causing the wood to expand and contract.
Older homes get nail pops too, usually from continued settling or sometimes from vibration loosening the nail grip over time. The fix is the same regardless of age.
The Proper Repair Method
The key insight is that the nail has lost its grip and won't hold if you just reset it. You need new fasteners in fresh wood.
Step 1: Add Screws
About 1-2 inches above and below the popped nail, drive drywall screws through the drywall into the stud. Use 1-1/4 or 1-5/8 inch coarse-thread drywall screws.
Set the screws just below the paper surface without breaking through. If you break the paper, the screw loses holding power. There's a sweet spot where the screw head creates a small dimple but the paper stays intact.
These screws do the actual work of holding the drywall tight to the stud. The nail is no longer structurally relevant at this point.
Step 2: Address the Nail
You have two choices: drive the nail back in or remove it. I usually drive it back in because removing it leaves a bigger hole.
If you drive it in, get it below the surface so compound can cover it. The nail isn't holding anything anymore, it just needs to be out of the way. If the nail doesn't want to go, use a nail set to punch it below the surface.
If you remove it, you'll have a hole the size of a nail head. Fill it along with the screw dimples.
Step 3: Cover with Compound
Apply joint compound over the nail and both screws. I prefer setting compound for this since it's harder and more durable than regular mud. 45-minute or 90-minute setting compound works great.
Apply a thin coat, let it cure, apply a second coat feathered wider. Sand smooth when fully hard. Prime before painting.
The repair area is small, so the mudding goes quick. Three screws and a nail is maybe 10 minutes of mud work including waiting for the first coat.
Why Hammering It Back Doesn't Work
I spent three attempts learning this lesson, so let me save you the trouble.
When you hammer a popped nail back in, you're driving it into wood that's already lost its grip on that specific spot. The nail might seat for a while, but the same shrinkage and movement that caused the pop will cause it again. The wood fibers around the nail hole are compressed and degraded. They won't grip properly.
Adding screws in fresh wood gives you new holding power. The screws bite into uncompromised wood fibers and hold tight. They're also mechanically stronger than nails for pull-out resistance, which is the whole problem with nail pops.
My father-in-law's rule: never fix a nail with another nail. Always upgrade to screws.
Finding All the Pops at Once
Nail pops often appear in clusters or patterns. If you've got one, you probably have more that aren't obvious yet.
Walk through the room in morning or evening light when the sun is low and raking across the walls. The shadows make bumps visible that you'd never notice in normal lighting. Run your hand along suspicious areas too. You can feel pops that you can't see.
Fix all visible pops at the same time. It's more efficient than coming back repeatedly, and matching the paint is easier when you're touching up multiple spots at once rather than one at a time over months.
In my first house, I did this survey and found 23 nail pops I'd been walking past every day without noticing. Fixed them all in one Saturday morning. That house was built in 1962, so these weren't new construction pops. Just decades of seasonal movement finally showing up.
Nail Pops vs Screw Pops
The repair is nearly identical, but they occur for slightly different reasons.
Nail pops happen because smooth nail shanks lose grip easily as wood shrinks. The nail slides in the hole.
Screw pops happen because the screw threads maintain their grip while the wood around them shrinks. The screw stays put but the wood pulls away, taking the drywall with it slightly.
Both result in the same visible bump. Both get fixed the same way: add screws above and below, then reset the original fastener and mud over everything.
Houses hung with screws generally have fewer pop problems than houses hung with nails. Modern construction almost always uses screws. Older homes, like mine from 1978, might have a mix of nails and screws, or all nails.
When to Just Live With Them
I'll be honest. I have a few nail pops in my house right now that I haven't fixed. They're in a closet, behind the clothes, and nobody will ever see them.
Nail pops are cosmetic problems, not structural ones. The drywall is still attached to the wall. If a pop isn't visible or isn't bothering you, there's no urgency to fix it.
That said, if you're painting a room anyway, fix the pops first. It takes minimal extra time and prevents them from getting worse.
New homeowners often stress about nail pops in their first house. My advice is to wait a year or two before doing a comprehensive fix. Let the house settle, let the lumber dry, and then fix everything at once. Fixing pops the first month just means you'll have more pops the second month.