What You'll Need
For the spray can method (small repairs):
- Homax or similar texture spray can, about $12
- Painter's tape
- Drop cloth or plastic sheeting
- Primer and paint for after
For the hopper method (larger areas):
- Texture hopper with compressor, $40 for the hopper
- All-purpose joint compound, $15 for five gallons
- Mixing drill and paddle
- Primer and paint
The spray cans work fine for patches up to maybe three or four square feet. Bigger than that, the hopper makes more sense. Each can covers about 20 square feet according to the label, but realistically you'll get less if you're trying to match existing texture.
Practice on Cardboard First
I cannot stress this enough.
Grab a piece of cardboard. Tape it to the wall. Practice your spray pattern before touching the actual surface you need to texture. Uncle Frank gave me this advice and I ignored it the first time. Had to scrape off my test and start over.
With the hopper, you're adjusting the nozzle, air pressure, mud consistency, and spray distance all at once. There's no way to get that right on your first try without practice. With the spray cans, the variables are simpler but you still need to find the right distance and speed.
Spend ten minutes on cardboard. Save yourself an hour of do-over work.
Step 1: Prep the Surface
Your drywall needs to be smooth before you add texture. Any bumps or ridges in your mud work will show through.
Sand the area with 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the dust with a damp cloth. Let it dry.
If this is new drywall or a patch, prime the surface first. Unprimed drywall absorbs moisture from the texture differently than finished areas, and you'll get an uneven result. Dave learned this one the hard way in his bathroom renovation. The patch he didn't prime shows as a slightly shinier spot after painting.
Step 2: Mask Everything
Texture spray gets everywhere. Worse than paint.
Tape off the ceiling line, any trim, outlets, switches. Cover the floor. If you're using a hopper, the overspray radius is bigger than you'd expect. I usually mask about two feet beyond where I'm actually working.
Wear old clothes. Wear safety glasses. The first time I sprayed texture overhead, I got splatter in my eye. Not fun.
Step 3: Spray the Texture
Spray can method:
Shake the can for a full minute. Hold it 12 to 18 inches from the wall. Use short bursts while moving steadily. Don't try to get full coverage on the first pass. Better to do two light coats than one heavy one.
The cans have an adjustable nozzle for different spray patterns. Start with it in the middle position and adjust based on your practice runs.
Hopper method:
Mix your mud thinner than regular joint compound. Add water gradually until it flows off the mixing paddle slowly, like cold honey. Uncle Frank's test works here too: dip your finger in and hold it up. If it runs down in a slow stream, you're there.
Set your compressor to 40 to 50 PSI. Hold the hopper 18 to 24 inches from the wall. Spray in steady passes. The texture should create small bumps across the surface without any runs or heavy spots.
If the bumps are too big, thin your mud more or increase your distance. If they're too sparse, get closer or thicken the mud slightly.
Step 4: Let It Dry
This is where patience matters.
Orange peel texture needs to dry completely before you can prime and paint over it. Touch it too soon and you'll smear the pattern or pull texture off the wall.
For spray can texture, wait at least 30 minutes before touching, 24 hours before painting. The can will give specific times.
For hopper-applied texture, it's similar. Light touch-dry in about 30 minutes to an hour depending on humidity. Fully dry and ready for primer in 24 hours.
Don't rush this. Brother-in-law Jeff tried to paint the same day he textured during his house flip. The roller pulled little bits of texture off and left bald spots everywhere. He had to sand it down and start over. Cost him a day.
Step 5: Prime and Paint
Once the texture is fully dry, prime it before painting. New texture is porous and will soak up paint unevenly without primer.
Use a thick-nap roller, 3/8 inch or more. A thin roller won't get into all the texture bumps. You'll see bare spots when it dries.
Carlos told me he uses a 1/2 inch nap for all textured surfaces. Says it uses more paint but gives better coverage with fewer coats. He's painted professionally for twenty years, so I take his word for it.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Spraying too close: You get heavy globs instead of fine orange peel. Keep 12 to 18 inches back with cans, 18 to 24 inches with a hopper.
Mud too thick: Creates a splatter pattern that looks more like knockdown than orange peel. Thin it more than you think you need to.
Skipping the practice: The variables take a few minutes to dial in. Better to waste a piece of cardboard than mess up your wall.
Not priming the patch: Bare drywall shows through differently. Prime before texturing if it's new drywall.
Painting too soon: Give it a full 24 hours. I know it's tempting to finish the project in one day. Resist.
Matching Existing Orange Peel
If you're patching into an existing textured wall, matching takes some trial and error.
Existing orange peel varies in density. Some is very light, almost smooth. Some is heavier with bigger bumps. Spray test patterns on cardboard and compare to your wall before committing.
Adjust your distance first. Closer gives bigger bumps, farther gives finer ones. With the hopper, you can also adjust air pressure. Lower pressure equals bigger droplets.
The goal isn't perfect. It's invisible. If someone walking by doesn't notice the patch, you succeeded. Pete at the hardware store put it well: "Nobody's grading your texture work except you."